Pc case airflow simulation
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Case Cooling – The Physics of Good Airflow
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GAMING PC CASES
The best PC cases can be the perfect jumping off point for your gaming PC buildbut can also be the finishing touch that makes your machine stand out from the rest. You have a wide selection to choose from, too.
Some of us like to go big and flashy, while others prefer a more minimalist approach. Of course, you can buy a prebuilt gaming PC if you want, but most people will tell you it's not the same as putting your own blood, sweat, and tears into a PC case that best represents you. Pick the best PC case for your specific needs. How big is the motherboard you want to use?
How much storage do you have in mind? How big is your graphics card? Size does indeed matter after all. Once you know what size case you need, next comes the fun stuff. It's a decision that you shouldn't take lightly as your case is the exterior of your gaming PC you're likely to see every single day. Lucky for you, we've collected some of the best PC cases to choose from in a variety of shapes, sizes, and budgets. Much like the original Cooler Master Cosmos, the CP is a hefty beast with a similarly large price-tag.
However, we'd argue that it's worth the expense. A beautiful handlebar design, curved glass panel, and sleek color-scheme are matched by features that'll support even the most high-end components including E-ATX motherboards and oversized GPUs. A larger footprint means that you won't be pushed for space either, making it a delight to build into. What's more, the RGB lighting is subtle enough that it won't distract you while you game.
Yes, this is a lot to spend on an enclosure. However, those who are willing to go all out on a build will get a case with everything they need to create a stunning PC. Want more full tower recommendations? See our guide to the best full tower case. One of Corsair's latest cases, the Carbide R, might just be the ultimate minimalist's case. Aside from a small "sail" logo on the front panel, the R ditches additional branding for the sake of a clean design for the style-obsessed. While the design may be minimal, the functionality isn't.
Phanteks has made some incredible cases over the years, but the Evolv X stands out as an excellent chassis for anyone looking for a mid-tower instance with a little something extra. That extra being the ability to slide two systems into its pleasing form—there's room for an ITX system in the top to go above the main ATX system.
It's a bit of a squeeze for sure, but it is possible.The humble PC fan has been in active service for decades and remains the primary cooling method used in PCs to this day. Other methods exist, but are generally reserved for enthusiasts. Phase-change cooling is excellent but super expensive, and liquid cooling is all pumps, pipes, reservoirs, coupled with the ever-present fear of wet electronics.
Misgivings about the age of the technology aside, it is difficult to deny the fact that blowing room-temperature air across heatsinks is an effective way to mitigate heat.
This guide aims to help you maximize air flow through your case, thereby improving the performance, stability, and longevity of your precious PC components. Most PC cases today conform to the common ATX layout: optical drives at the front-top, hard disks in the front-middle, motherboard mounted on the right-side panel, PSU at the top-rear, and add-on cards mounted to exhaust out the rear of the case.
Others mount the PSU at the bottom of the case, rather than at the top to avoid hot air from the working components passing through it before being expelled. More on that later. Fans are generally mounted in the following locations: front, rear, top, and side. The fans on the front of the case are usually primary intakes, drawing ambient temperature air in to pass across hot components.
The top and rear fans are exhaustsexpelling the warm air out of the case and away from the internal components. In the past this simple air exchange was enough, but in modern systems with powerhouse and often multiple video cards, large banks of RAM, and overclocked CPUs, more thought needs to be put into how air travels through an enclosure. It can be tempting to buy a case that comes with as many fans as possible in the hope that it will more adequately cool your system, but as you will see, efficient and smooth air flow is demonstrably more important than a higher total air flow in cubic feet per minute CFM.
Cases that use three fans aligned vertically on the front are a great place to start, as they draw in air evenly across the entire face of the enclosure. That many intake fans will most likely contribute to positive air pressure within the case, though See the advanced section at the end of this guide for details on case air pressure.
Rear and top fans should always be exhausts, expelling the rising warm air from the case. Do not buy a case that causes any obvious obstructions to air flow. For example, side-mounted hard disk caddies are fantastic, but if they also require you to install the disks vertically, they are obviously going to seriously impede air flow. Consider spending extra on a modular PSU.
Having the ability to remove superfluous cables makes for a much cleaner system, and allows you to easily add cables for hardware acquired in the future.
Please, throw away your floppy drive. Large internal fan ducts, while a good idea on paper, are more likely to decrease overall thermal performance by obstructing primary air flow through the case.
Detach and remove them if possible. Fans mounted on the side of the case can be useful, but they often cause problems. They can cause turbulence, hindering the efficient flow of air through a case, and can contribute significantly to dust build-up. This is best achieved by using a larger, low RPM fan.
Clean your PC on a regular basis! Dust accumulation is a major hazard to electronics, as it is an insulator and can clog up exhaust ports. Simply open up the case in a well ventilated area and use some compressed air or a gentle brush to dislodge the accumulated dust. Cleaning will be a important measure to take, at least until we are are all running coolers that de-dust themselves. Larger, lower RPM fans are generally far quieter and more efficient than their smaller, faster counterparts.
Where possible, choose big. Do not run your PC in any sort of enclosed box.Building a PC may be as easy as putting a child's playset together, but optimisation is a dark art. One scientist recently estimated that there are as many variations of different settings in your computer as there are neurons in the human brain. OK, we just made that up for the purposes of this article, but the point stands. Optimising your PC takes much time and patience, as well as a solid understanding of how it's put together and how it works.
And a screwdriver. There is some middle ground between these two paradigms - a fast PC doesn't have to be loud and, likewise, a quiet PC doesn't have to be slow. Optimising a gaming PC means that it should run faster and have more room for ludicrous overclocks. System stability is key here, and the focus of a gaming PC is on vast amounts of airflow at the cost of quietness. Of course, quieter fans will make a big difference, but gaming cases' large fans tend to generate quite a lot of sound.
On the other hand, a quiet PC will tend to run warmer, but its silence makes it ideal for installation in a living room. Here underclocking, rather than overclocking, can prove useful as it means that the internal fans can be tuned lower, and make a little less noise as a result.
Bear in mind, too, that modern PCs are difficult to break, and most settings and components can be readily returned to their original state. Let's get down to brass tacks here. Before you start fiddling with fan speeds and CPU voltages, you'll need a computer. Otherwise you'll be fiddling with fan speeds in mid-air. Whether you're buying an off-the-shelf PC or assembling your own, the most important thing to consider first is the case, or chassis.
Cases generally come in two species: the quiet but warm and the ugly but cool. Quiet cases generally look sleeker, with no visible air intakes or giant glowing fans, but their silence comes at a cost: you'll often find that due to lower airflow the temperatures within these particular beasties are higher than their more gamey counterparts. The ugly but cool cases often consist of little more than a vaguely cubic steel mesh into which you hang your motherboard and components.
These cases are designed with performance in mind, and the huge air intake and output they're capable of means that all the innards stay nice and chilly. There are some cases that straddle both the quiet and the cool. Cooler Master's HAF series includes an incredible amount of cooling, and we've been impressed with what we've seen so far. There are other considerations when buying a case. Ever wondered what those strategically-positioned giant holes on the motherboard tray are for?Forums New posts Search forums.
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Guide to Proper Case Airflow Design Airflow and case circulation: Airflow: Rule 1 - Airflow is best if it can flow in one direction only and it is always better off stays stronger flowing in a straight line of sight direction if possible. Heat: Rule 2 - Heat naturally rises so to remove heat the easiest and most efficient way it is best to draw air in from the cases lowest points and exhaust it from the cases highest points.
The most common setup for cases is to intake air from the bottom front and exhausted out the top and back. The air is drawn in from the coolest point bottom front and moves in a lazy "S" upwards to flow across the motherboard and CPU and then carry the heat from the case out the rear exhaust fans top rear and psu fans. It may improve cooling in one spot and allow a "dead spot" for airflow somewhere else. To reduce the interference from side fans most cases use air ducts to direct the cool air right into the CPU fan so it will not interfere with airflow through the case so side fans should never be used without air ducts to prevent the whirlpooling of the case airflow.
Video Cooling: VGA - the video card area tends to be a dead spot for airflow. This is why they have fans now that exhaust hot air directly out the back of the case.
It should not blow high cfms directly across the heat sink or its fan or you could actually reduce its cooling ability by canceling out the airflow moving across and though the heat sink.
Best Airflow Case for Building a Gaming or Work PC in 2020
Positive Pressure Airflow System: More Air in Than Air Out - the benefit to this type of system is supposed to be that it pulls in less dust than a negative airflow system but this is a false idea. Weather the fan draws the air in or directly blows it in it is still the same air from your room with the same amount of dust in it.
If your room is dusty your case will be dusty. A simple air supply test is to just check the amount of air your system is exhausting through the small holes in the back of your case, if you can feel a gentle draft coming out then you are restricted and should adjust the airflow by reducing the cfms of your intake fans or making bigger exhaust openings to balance things out.
Negative Pressure Airflow System: More Air Out Than Air In - the benefit to this type of system is they are quieter because they have slower fans that move less cfms so they run quieter. Often people will use fan controllers to speed up fans for better but noisier cooling while gaming and yet turn them down to still have a nice quiet computer when they are just doing normal computing activities.
Why does a positive airflow system get less dusty than a negative airflow system? Both systems have the exact same amount of dust moving through them but it tends to settle on things in a negative airflow system more, only because the air is moving slower.
Think of a fan blowing feathers around in a small room, as long as the fan keeps blowing fast they all stay airborne but put the fan on slow speed and everything will be covered in feathers. The same applies to dust in your computer, it is the airflow "inside" the computer that determines how fast your computer gets dusty. Air Supply Test: A simple air supply test is to just check the amount of air your system is exhausting rear exhaust fan and also checking the air your psu is exhausting is to just remove the side cover on your computer.
It will always move more air with the door open so if you notice only a little difference then you are fine but if you notice a big difference then you may need to investigate where your restriction is and provide a larger or less restrictive air intake opening. A person with high cfm exhaust fans who doesn't have proper sized intake openings for his case can actually cause a slight vacuum inside the case and prevent the psu from getting enough air because it is being held back by that vacuum causing the psu to overheat.
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Airflow is an important aspect of a PC case because if your computer case has bad airflow design then your internal components will get heat up, and it may result in lower performance and can also affect their lifespan. There are many cases out there with different designs but not all of them have good airflow. Some cases are built more for stunning looks but they do suffer in the performance department, especially the cases with tempered glass front panel or solid front panel.
Also, there should be two front panel fan mounts for installing mm or mm fans, and at least one of the fans has no hard drive cages in front of it.
Some of these high airflow cases have extra vents at the rear or top for better air circulation. To have the best airflow, you can use high airflow fans in these airflow computer cases and if you want a quieter case with a bit less cooling performance then you can go for quiet case fans that also offer very good performance. Some users do prefer performance overlooks and they prefer cases with high airflow even if their looks are on the average side. So, here I am going to list down the best airflow PC cases for all major form factors that include mini-tower, mid-tower, full-tower, and cube case.
These below mentioned high airflow cases are handpicked by me and they all come with good airflow, ventilation and offers maximum cooling performance to your internal components. Below are the best airflow mini-tower cases that can support up to micro-ATX motherboards.
These cases can be used to build a small form factor PC for gaming or work. A very good budget airflow case for building a budget gaming PC or a work PC for home or office.
It comes with a full mesh front panel and fan mount points at the front, top, rear and side for achieving good airflow and also has good ventilation.
The build quality of the case is pretty good, along with the finishing. The case can support high-end graphics cards up to mm in length, mm tall CPU coolers and up to mm radiator for liquid cooling, which is remarkable for a mini-tower case.
It comes with a 5. Other features include removable dust filters, tool-free drive installation and cable routing. You can get this micro-ATX airflow case under 50 dollars. The case has some resemblance to the above mentioned Cooler Master N case but lacks support for a 5.Case Airflow [PC For Beginners] – NGON
It is a spacious case with good build quality and it comes with a full mesh front panel and fan mount points at front, top and rear. It can accommodate powerful graphics cards up to mm in length, mm tall CPU coolers and up to mm Radiators for AIO liquid cooling.